The pool at the Days Inn across the street from Graceland. I had to make one of the saddest trips of my life to Memphis at the beginning of last summer. At the time that I booked it, I didn't realize that the world of kitsch at Graceland would be such a respite. Elvis music blaring all day and into the evening. Two 24 hour a day Elvis channels in HDTV. Middle aged women making eyes at me. An actress from an Elvis movie, "Paradise Rock-a-Hula Speedway Hawaiian Style" selling 8x10 glossies of herself and her book.